A timeless leather strap fits almost any vintage watch and an original-style strap can sometimes be found easily in the current range of new straps, but sometimes you have to search for a suitable strap for a long time.
With a wide selection, you can add more personality to your vintage watch with different materials and colours, but if you want, you can stick to the original or an imitation of the original strap type and color. There are still some original brand-specific leather straps and buckles on the market if you want a strap that matches the authentic era and model of your vintage watch.
(Vintage watch straps are sought after by collectors and that is why they are also available for sale in our online store.)
Some basic terms related to straps.
Lugs- protrusions at the ends of the watch, between which the strap is attached.
Lug width- is a measurement that tells you what width of strap fits the watch. In vintage men's watches, the lug width is most often 16-24 mm in two-millimeter intervals, but there are also more special 17, 19 and 21 mm lug widths. Some watches have a different or otherwise special lug solution than normal, so only strap models designed specifically for them can be used. For example, some old wristwatches from the 30s and 40s have a fixed bar between the lugs, which requires a special strap designed for them, which is slipped, glued or “riveted” into place.
(Some old vintage watches may have fixed pins around which the strap is attached. These can cause headaches for a watch enthusiast.)
Spring bar- this is used to secure the strap between the lugs, so that the ends of the spring bar lock into the holes drilled in the lugs. Some vintage watches only use curved spring bars, so the end of the strap is naturally also curved. Vintage watches also use tubular spring bars, for which there are small pins in the lugs. To install the spring bar, it is a good idea to get a spring bar tool designed for it. The tool often has a fork at one end, which is slipped between the strap and the lug and the spring bar can be slid out of the hole. If the lugs have through holes, you can press the spring bar out of the hole with the thin end of the spring bar tool. Nowadays, straps are also available with quick-lock spring bars, so that no tools are needed to change them. A suitable and high-quality spring bar will hold the strap securely in place.
The quality and fit of the spring bar should not be compromised and it is recommended to replace them from time to time.
Leather strap- usually consists of two parts and is a general name for a watch strap, or more commonly, a watch strap or band. Leather straps come in different lengths, so you should be able to find one that fits your wrist. The leather loops on the strap hold the extra end of the strap firmly in place so that it doesn't catch on anything. Leather straps are mainly available in even widths and versions that taper towards the buckle. A wide strap is more comfortable to wear when it tapers slightly towards the buckle, because it allows the wrist to bend more freely. Vintage leather straps can be found in really unique designs and colors, which can easily turn a boring, basic watch into something spectacular.
(A tapered leather strap often works well for a small and elegant vintage watch, and it also makes the watch more comfortable and lighter on the wrist. The strap in the picture tapers from an 18 mm wide attachment point to a 16 mm wide buckle attachment point.)
At its simplest, a leather strap is a single perforated leather strip with a buckle at the end. However, most straps are two-piece.
Most often, the structure is made up of layers, with the inside being softer leather and the outside being harder leather that is more resistant to wear. Some have material inside to add thickness and appearance to the strap's profile. There are an endless number of colours and styles available. The design and colour of the strap can be used to emphasize the design and colour scheme of a vintage watch. For example, by matching the colour of the strap's stitching to the colour of the hands or the surface structure and "roughness" of the strap to match the patina of the dial or the case. It is easy to make more holes in a leather strap, making it fit your wrist perfectly.
(For example, a leather bund strap can make this small 27 mm wide vintage watch feel and look larger on your wrist.)
Rally -leather straps have many holes in addition to the adjustment holes to allow it to breathe better on the wrist.
A Bund- style leather strap is a good option when a vintage watch causes allergic symptoms due to its material or wear. A Bund strap usually has a leather piece under the watch that follows the shape of the watch, creating a “protective layer” between the watch case and your skin.
Zulu and Nato- style straps are also made of leatherand are perfect for vintage field watches, for example.
Buckle- especially leather straps use a traditional buckle to adjust the length. The buckle is used to attach the halves of the strap to each other. The buckle is usually attached to the strap with a spring bar, so if necessary, the original buckle of the watch can be replaced with a new strap, so the whole remains original. Usually, the buckle colour and material are chosen to be the same as the material of the watch case, so that the look is uniform.
(Adding a watch brand's original buckle to a newer strap is often a nice detail that collectors like.)
The claspused in metal braceletsis also available for leather straps.The claspis a shell in the buckle that has holes for micro-adjustment of the length. In leather straps, the clasp is pressed into the desired position on the strap.
Different leathers
A leather strap is a pleasant natural material, but it wears and patinas over time and does not withstand humid conditions as well as many synthetic materials. There are leather straps on the market that are treated with water-repellent coatings or lined with rubber, which are more resistant to moisture. A high-quality leather strap can last for years on your wrist if well cared for. Leather straps are made from animal skin and there are some very exotic materials available, such as stingray and ostrich. Exotic materials often do not withstand water and humid conditions as well as straps made from cowhide.
The leather most often used in straps is either cowhide or calfskin. There are three types of cowhide commonly used in straps.
Aniline leather- the highest quality leather that has only been dyed through but not otherwise treated. It gets wet, patinated, fades and scratches easily.
Semianiline- finished leather, which has been treated with various waxes or varnishes in addition to dyeing to increase durability. Patterns can be printed on the surface of the leather, often imitating exotic reptile skins.
Nubuck leather -the top layer of leather has been removed by sanding or brushing, giving it a characteristic matte finish. Nubuck can also be easily confused with suede, the inner surface of leather often used in shoemaking. Nubuck leather is sensitive to dirt and wears easily.
(The colour of the strap is matched to the tone of the patinated radium hands.)
“Genuine Leather” - often made from the bottom part of the hide and often coated with various synthetic materials to improve durability. These straps sometimes have fabric or other material added between the layers. The term is also used to sell “leather straps” that are unfortunately made entirely of synthetic materials.
The leather of many ungulates and hoofed animals has been tested and used in straps. There are straps made of reindeer leather and elk leather, which are familiar to Finns. The horse leather used in bracelets around the world, or Cordovan, is a uniform and velvety shiny leather that can withstand heavy wear.
Alligator and crocodile are usually used with more formal watches and are slightly more expensive than cowhide straps. They are characterized by large scale patterns, while alligator straps have a slightly more regular pattern than crocodile straps. A scale patterned strap adds an interesting and bold texture to an otherwise minimalist watch, but it is not very resistant to moisture.
Lizard - is great for vintage and dress watches for more formal occasions, as the scale patterns are smaller and more refined. Often, straps made from reptile skins will have the word “Genuine”, which means that the leather is not cowhide with a printed scale pattern, but genuine reptile skin. Lizard skin is also sensitive to moisture, which is a good thing to keep in mind when choosing a strap.
Ostrich - are known for their unique surface texture, where small round marks irregularly dot the surface of the leather. Ostrich leather is a pleasantly soft, yet very durable material for a watch strap.
Fish - most often made from stingray or shark skin, but you can also see more exotic fish skins being used. These have a very unique and recognizable surface texture. Ironically, these bracelets don't hold up well to humid conditions.
Vegan leather - nowadays, there are also vegan leather straps made from almost any material. In these times of circular economy, it is becoming more and more common for watch straps to be made from recycled leather. The strap could have originally been a leather jacket or a leather bag, for example.
(You can also replace the strap yourself with the right tools.)
Leather strap care
The best solution is to have several leather straps that you change and clean regularly. This will give the strap time to dry and recover from the strain of use. It is recommended that you do not wear your leather strap at night during daily use, so that it has time to dry overnight. Most leather straps can be cleaned gently with mild soapy water or a leather care product, but more delicate leathers require special cleaning methods. There are different cleaning and care products available for all types of leather. If you wash your leather strap, let it dry in an airy place naturally. Leather straps should be stored in a clean and dry place, protected from harsh light.
Vintage leather straps often lose their adhesives over time, so they usually don't withstand daily use. However, hard and stiff vintage straps can be restored to almost their former luster and suppleness with the right leather care products. We recommend replacing your old vintage strap with a new one of the same style for daily use, and keeping the original strap as a collectible.
(A quality leather strap will eventually wear out, even if you take good care of it.)
It is worth taking the time to choose a strap and seeking professional help if necessary. A competent watch store will help you choose and adjust a suitable strap, taking into account the watch model and the user's needs.
Custom leather straps
If you can't find a suitable strap in the selection or the watch model is so special that there are no straps available for it on the market, the strap can be made in custom to your needs. If you have the skills, you can also make the strap yourself. There are several leather strap makers in Finland and even courses for making your own leather strap. An example of this is Jukka Kolehmaisen and his Raju leatherworks in Lahti.
(A few examples of Raju leatherworks' leather straps, which can be found on sale for example in Lindroos' brick-and-mortar stores. You can also order a completely customized bracelet from Raju.)
There are many great leatherworking professionals in Finland, who often make other leatherwork in addition to watch straps. Here are a few of them listed: