The forgotten Tissot

The first years at Tissot were full of achievements and the following decades did not slow down the pace

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Unohdettu Tissot

Although in the field of modern watches, Tissot has been on the rise in recent years thanks to, among other things, its new PRX watch models, in terms of vintage watches, Tissot still seems to be lagging behind many other brands, and for no reason. In addition to a long history, achievements and innovations, Tissot offers vintage watch lovers everything between earth and heaven and at a reasonable price.

Charles-Felicien Tissot and Charles-Emile Tissot, father and son, founded Tissot in 1853 in the town of Le Locle, Switzerland, where the factory is still located today. Already in its first year, Tissot produced the first pocket watch with two time zones, and during the same year, series production of pocket watches also began.

The first years at Tissot were full of achievements and the following decades did not slow down the pace.

The first years at Tissot were full of achievements and the following decades did not slow down the pace. In addition to the mechanics and features, Tissot has been innovative, especially in terms of the materials used in the watches. In 1969, for example, Tissot released the Sideral collection, in which the case material was made from really light fiberglass. At the beginning of the 1970s, the Autolub collection was published, the movements of which were almost entirely made of plastic, with the aim of creating maintenance-free and, as the name suggests, self-lubricating movements. In 1985, the Tissot Rock Watch with a stone case was released, and in 1988, the Tissot Wood Watch with a wooden case was released.

(Tissot Sideral chronograph from the early 1970s with Lemania 872 movement, one of the many variations of the Sideral collection)


(Tissot Autolub manual winding watch, whose mechanism is marketed by Tissot as self-lubricating and maintenance-free.)

In addition to innovation in the field of materials, Tissot also has technical achievements. In 1930, Tissot released the first anti-magnetic wristwatch, which was achieved by using an alloy metal containing palladium in the movement parts. In 1953, in Tissot's jubilee year, the Visodate collection was released and the first automatic watch, which date changed immediately at midnight and not over the course of several hours, as was the case with other watches in that time.


(Tissot's early antimagnetic watch from the 1940s. Tissot 20 movement ticks inside.)

(Representative of the Tissot Visodate collection from 1954 with Tissot 27B-621 movement)

As you can already see from the pictures above, Tissot truly offers something for everyone. There is guaranteed to be a vintage watch suitable for classic and elegant as well as sporty and everyday wear. Below are some of my own picks from Tissot's wide range of watch models, which I think deserve more attention.

1. Tissot PR-516

The affordable end Tissot PR-516 collection offers a lot of choice for those looking for a new watch. The size of the cases varies depending on the movement, usually between 33-36 mm and the most common variations are steel and gold-plated. Due to the oval shape of their cases, they sit on the wrist a little bigger than one would expect. You can choose from watches with traditional manual winding, automatic and quartz movements as well as with more special electronic movements. There are endless variations of dials, both in one and in two-tone, with and without a date.

(On the left, Tissot PR 516 with gold-plated case, date and 782-1 movement. On the right with steel case, without date and 781-1 movement.)

2. Tissot Jubileum

Tissot's 100-year anniversary model from 1953, which seems that many have forgotten about. Limited quantities produced, which makes it rare, but it is not (yet)in the prices, especially in Finland. There are a few different dial and hands variations available with 35 mm steel cases. In terms of its appearance, the Jubileum is very similar to, for example, many Tissot Seastars from the 1950s, and the only thing that separates it from the rest is the text "Jubileum" below the logo.

(Tissot Jubileum with nicely patinated dial and 27B-1 movement)
Once again a good indication of what kind of finds can be made from Tissot's collections in terms of price and quality.
3. Tissot Navigator

At the beginning of the 1970s, Tissot and Omega worked closely together, and during this time several so-called "sister models" were born, meaning both produced watches under their own names, which, despite small differences, resembled each other a lot. One of the best examples of this would be the Tissot Navigator chronographs, which are almost identical to the Omega Seamaster Yachting chronographs. Both use Lemania-based movements and the case pushers, crown and crystal are matching with each other. You can see small differences in the finishing of the caseback, and the most significant difference is naturally in the dials, where still the layouts and color schemes are similar. Even though the differences are so small, Omega's Yachting chronographs are almost always at least twice as expensive compared to Tissot's Navigators. Once again a good indication of what kind of finds can be made from Tissot's collections in terms of price and quality.


(Tissot Navigator chronograph ref 45503 from 1974 with original steel bracelet)

 

Listed below are a few Tissots that we have sold over the years, which I think are worth mentioning. Many rare models that you don't come across every day.

(Tissot Newtimer "Jump Hour" automatic watch with Tissot 2581 movement. I think one of the funniest Tissots ever.)

(Tissot Seastar chronograph with Lemania 1277 movement. Serviced and sold to its new owner for everyday use.)

(Tissot Seastar T-12 automatic watch with a rotating inner bezel. Tissot 784-2 movement and size as much as 42 mm without crown.)

(Tissot Seastar automatic watch with a wonderful two-color dial and large 37 mm case for its age.)

(Everyone knows the Omega Memomatic and Jaeger LeCoultre's Memovox, but few remember that Tissot also had its own wristalarms. Sonorous models have the same type of case designs than PR 516.)

Over the past few years, the prices of many different brands of vintage watches have steadily risen, but the prices of Tissots, especially here in Finland, have remained very moderate.

If you haven't checked Tissot's selection of vintage watches, you still have time. Over the past few years, the prices of many different brands of vintage watches have steadily risen, but the prices of Tissots, especially here in Finland, have remained very moderate. For us Tissot lovers, this is of course a great deal and it enables us to make inexpensive finds, but the trend will hardly remain like this for much longer and inevitably, the interest of enthusiasts and collectors will also be focused on Tissot before long. And no wonder, because a brand with such a long, successful and accomplished history truly deserves it.

 See our current collection of Tissot watches

1 comment

Hyvä kiinnostava yhteenveto.

Antti Luukkonen

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